Wearing apparel



L. N. GROSS.

WEARING APPAREL. APPLICATION TIL-ED JUNE 20, 1922.

1,425 ,QUSO P ented Aug 8, 1922,

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

(472 0 Eyre/5' L. N. GROSS.

WEARING APPAR'EL.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 20, I922.

LQZEKEQS, PatentedAug. 8

2 SHEETSWSHEU :1

1 3 W a in Cleveland Heights, in the county of entree scares care-wt LOUIS N. GRDSS, 0F CLEVELAND HEIGHTS, OHIQ I WEARING APPAREL.

\ Application filed June 20,

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Louis N. GRoss, a citizen of the United States, residin at uyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Wearing Apparel, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

This invention is directed to improvements in ladies bifurcated or bloomer garments wherein no. posterior openings are provided.

It has been customary heretofore, to manufacture garments of the class referred to, by cutting gores or pieces of fabric, which, when sewed together, required the formation of seams extending alongthe sides and along the middle of the front of the garinent as well as the seat thereof, the. respecan additional piece of fabric and consequently resulted in an inflexible crotch .con-

struction with annoying seams. The Wearing of such a garment caused consider-able discomfort, in that the disposition of the seams was such, that no benefit was derived from the elasticity of the fabric in the crotch inasmuch as the seams prevented a stretching or conformation of the garment to the figure when the wearer assumed various positions.

The general object of the present invention therefore, is the provision of a bifurcated undergarment formed of a minimum number of knitted pieces or gores designed and cut in such a manner as to have the joining seams of the respective pieces lie adjacent the front of the body when the garment is worn, there being no seams present in the crotch, sides or seat of the garment.

A more specificobject of the presentinventi'on is the provision of a design for an undergarment formed ofknitted cloth having a rear gore comprising the ma or portion of the garment and provided with a flap portion comprising the crotch of the garment and front gores of considerably less width than the rear gore, whereby the rear gore may extend to the front of the garment and the seams formed in joining the respective gores into a garment will be disposed 1n the front thereof, thus permitting unusual elasticity in the fabric, whence the garment Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 8, i922,

1922. Seria1No.569,576.

may more readily follow the lines of the figure irrespective of the position assumed by the wearer.

A further object is the provision of a bifurcated undergarment of .lcn'itted fabric comprising a rear piece or gore, cut to permit the gathering of the waistline and bifurcated ends of the garment, while at the same time providing an extreme degree of fullness in the seat and crotch thereof without the presence of seams in the seat, crotch or sides of the garment.

A further object is the provision of a bloomer garment having a reinforcedcrotch construction of unusual strength, the cutting and stitching of the respective garment pieces being such as to obtain the greatest degree of fabric elasticity in the crotch.

A still further object is the provision of a bloomer garment in which the garment pieces may be cut to fulfill the foregoing objects and in addition, to obtain a continuous leg and crotch piece seam whereby there will be an entire absence of acute stitch turns or stitch termini at which stresses, due to the stretching of the crotch regions, could concentrate.

Other objects will become apparent from the following description which refers to the accompanying drawings, and the essential objects of the invention will be summarized in the claims. I

In the-drawings, Fig. 1 is a front elevational view of the completed garment; Fig. 2 is a rear view of the garment as worn on the human form; Fig. 3 is a cross sectional elevation of the garment when superposed on a human figure; Fig. 4 is a plan or pattern development of pieces comprising the garment, showing the relative positions of the seam lines; F 'ig. 5 is a pattern development of the back or seat: Fig. 6 is a pattern de- Velopment of a reinforcing crotch piece; and

Fig. 7 shows the line the inner'leg seam follows when the leg portions of the garment are completely stretched apart.

when sewed to the front gores, comprises the. crotch of the garment.

The proportioning of the rear gore 9 to the front gores 7 and 8 is substantially as illustrated in Figs. 4: and. 5 respectively. The width of the rear piece or gore 9, in proportion to the width of the front gores 7 and 8, is such that when the garment is completed, the joining seams 12 and 13 between the front gores and the rear gore will lie substantially along the front of the garment while the front gores are joined by a seam 14: extending midway of the front of the garment from the gathered waistline to the crotch portion 10, thus terminating a 0011- siderable distance away from the crotch. The inner seams 16 and 17 between the front gores and the rear gore extend from the gathered or pleated ends 18 and 19 of the bifurcated portions, or legs, along the inner sides of the leg portions of the garment and continue into an arcuate seam 20 which comprises the joining seam between the flap or crotch portion 10 of the rear gore and the front gores, as illustrated in Fig. 1. It is to be noted that the seams will thus circumvent the crotch region and constitute a continuous seam having no acute turns.

If desired the crotch may be reinforced by an additional layer of fabric 27 having the contour of the pattern shown in Fig. 6,

in which case it may be joined to the gar-' ment along the seams hereinbefore described as circumventing the crotch region. This piece may be provided with downwardly extending side portions 30 which may be sewed into 'the leg seam along theedges 31 while the outer curved edge 32 may be stitched directly to the seat as shown in Fig. 2.

When cutting the respective pieces from the fabric the front pieces 7 and 8 are cut to a length slightly less than the length of the back piece 9 and the waistline or top edge 14 of the latter piece is cut along a curve, as shown in Flg. 5, to obtain the.

. waistline effect shown in Fig. 1.

' U-shape The front pieces 7 and .8 have'the inneredges thereof cut. to form an inverted When the respective pieces are stitched together. The flap or crotch portion of the'back piece is cut to be complementary to this shape when folded along the line 15, and stretched upwardly, ting lines (relative to the wale of the fabric) being such that a maximum transverse stretch may be obtained in the crotch por- ,,tion 10. .As shown in Fig. 4, the flap porthereof would be along lines 33 shown in Fig. 4.

tion 10 is cut slightly less in width than the width of the converging space between the front gores. Hence when the flap portion 10 is "stretched upwardly, the stitching edge the dot and dash When the leg seams 16 and 17 are being formed however, the front gore edges and flap edges are the cut-- .the crotch.

Since the seams in knitted undergarments prevent a full stretching of the fabric, I prefer to cut the back piece, as shown in Fig. 41, with the side edges parallel. In fact theseedges may be the edges of the uncut cloth which should, therefore, be of snfiicient Width to permit a folding of the back piece along lines 22 and 24: on 'a bias to the run-of the Weave of the cloth. Seams 12 and 13 therefore will be formed on .a still greater bias to the uprightposition of the wearer and a higher degree of elasticity is thereby obtained in the bifurcated or leg portions of the garment.

To obtain the gathered effect at the waist,

the waist-line 21 may he hemmed and provided with suitable elastic bands. Likewise the gathering of the leg portions may also be effected by hen'nning the ends 18 and 19 thereof and inserting suitable elastic bands therein.

From the foregoing description, it will be seen that all ofthe seams of the garment will lie adjacent the front portions of the body of thewearer while the sides of the leg portions, as well as the seat and the major portion of the waist thereof, is comprised of a single piece of unseamed knitted fabric which permits a greater stretching and more ready conformation of the garment to the figure of the wearer than has heretofore been present in similar garments. Furthermore, by forming the crotch in the manner described, thus eliminating the presence of seams in the crotch, an unusual fulness is provided which permits the reclining, sitting or distorting of the figure without discomfiture to the wearer. It is to be also noted that the crotch fabric may be drawn from the front of the figure to the rear thereof through the crotch, when a forward bendin position is assumed, without irritation.

l-Iaving thus described my invention, I claim 1. A womans bloomer garment comprising a bifurcated back member having its side edges out along parallel lines and having a U-shaped crotchportion cut intermediate member being joined to the outer edges of iaaaooe the front members along seams formed on' of the legs of the garment, the upper portion of the seam being arcuate at the front of the garment above the crotch.

2. A womans bloomer garment comprising a bifurcated back member having a [Ll-shaped crotch extension out intermediate converging leg portions, the edges of the member between the leg portions and the crotch portion being arcuate, and right and left front members joined by a seam intermediate the front of the garment having converging inner edges terminating in an arcuate edge cut complementary to the curved edge of the crotch extension of the back member, the inner edges of the back member being joined to the inner edges of the front members along a continuous seam, the crotch extension being joined by the seam to the legs a substantial distance fromthe medial line of the garment and to the waist portion of the garment a substantial distance above the crotch, said intermediate arcuate edges of the back member being stretched to approximate a reverse curve;

3. A womans bloomer garment comprising a rear gore member of knit fabric forming the seat and sides and rear leg ortions v of the garment and having an integral crotch extension, and front gore members joined to the sides of the rear gore member and having a curved edge sewed to thee):- tension member along a seam formed at a substantial distance above the crotch portion and extending at either side of the medial line of the garment, the front and rear gores being joined along the inner sides of the leg portions by seams merging by gradual curves with the upward curve formed by the seam of said crotch extension, the rear gore and said extension being cut so that the wales in the crotch portion run parallel with the medial line of the garment and strains along the inner leg seams are translated into strains transversely of the wales of said crotch extension and are distributed along a substantial portion of said merging curved seam.

In testimony whereof, I hereunto affix my signature.

LOUIS GROSS. 

